We’ve picked a selection of our favourite walks to keep you busy for several weeks, and graded them for difficulty (effort) and character to help you choose something interesting. They are only a small fraction of what’s available – whether you like pottering, strolling, or hiking there are hundreds of places to walk.
Maps + Guidebooks: It’s worth getting a map of the area—the free ones from the tourist office are good. Alternatively, buy the Kompass map for Chiavenna (92) available at Stanfords or Cordee.
- Walking in the Engadine – Switzerland. Cicerone 2019
- The Most Beautiful Walks in Bregaglia (Italian)
Table of Contents[Hide][Show]
2. Walks around Chiavenna+−
- Exploring Chiavenna
- Up the river to Crotto Belvedere (Easy 50m 20mins)
- Parco Marmitte dei Gigante (Easy/moderate. Park on the edge of Chiavenna)
- The AcquaFraggia Waterfalls and the climb to Savogno (Easy to reach the waterfall. To reach Savogno = strenuous, 90mins, 600m ascent).
- Val Bodengo (Easy, 100m, 30mins or more)
- 4. Val di Mello
1. Walks from the house (635m)
Heights give metres of ascent (height difference) of the walk.
The view from Dalòo (Strenuous. 460m. About an hour)
Climb the hill on the path directly from Pianazzola. The path starts at the very end of the road to Pianazzola and a steep walk of about an hour finishes at the mountain village of Dalòo. The village of pretty alpine houses has quite a sweet church. It’s perched on top of a dramatic cliff right at the join of two valleys and has a spectacular view over 270 degrees around the valley. We’ve also walked to Dalòo from San Giacomo on the road between Chiavenna and Madesimo.
Down to Chiavenna (Easy to go down! Strenuous 300m, 40mins to go up)
The road to Pianazzola was only completed in 1973 and before that the only way to reach the village was on foot. Mrs dell’Ava told us this is how she reached the hospital when she gave birth to her sons! It is one of those lovely old cobbled paths, and peeks out through the woods to the old vineyards below the village. From the house walk towards the church along the main street, then at the fountain head down the hill past the old school.
2. Walks around Chiavenna
Exploring Chiavenna
The river Mera runs through the historic centre of Chiavenna and tumbles over giant boulders as it makes its way through the town. The best place to see the view is from the old bridge (pedestrian bridge), where you can also see many of the oldest buildings built directly on of some of the biggest stones. Starting from this bridge there are some lovely old streets to explore, and there’s a pleasant morning exploring them in search of one of the many fine restaurants in Chiavenna.
The Chiavenna valley and Engardina are an important low pass through the mountains, and centuries of travellers and foreign rulers have passed through – including Barbarossa, the Grison Podestà and the Austrian Consuls on their way to Milan. There is a ‘Treasure museum’ (Museo del Tesoro) in the church of San Lorenzo which holds a bible cover called the ‘pace’ – “one of the worlds great masterpieces of medieval goldsmithry” – worth a look. The church itself is also interesting and has some lovely cloisters.
Up the river to Crotto Belvedere (Easy 50m 20mins)
It is a nice stroll up the river Mera to Crotto Belvedere: along one of the ancient paths in the valley. Crotto Belvedere is one of our favourite crotti (‘cave restaurants’): it looks like it hasn’t changed much since it was a medieval tavern and is great place for a hearty lunch of pizzocheri or gnocchi and wine sitting next to the river or inside in front of the fire. Its about a mile from Chiavenna to Crotto Belvedere, you just follow signs for Via Bregaglia from the centre of Chiavenna following a good path on the right ride of the river. (tel: +39 0343 33589).
After lunch you could look into the nice church next the crotto in Piuro, alternatively you you will pass the Parco Marmite di Gigante on your way back to Chiavenna, which is a lovely way to spend the afternoon.
Parco Marmitte dei Gigante (Easy/moderate. Park on the edge of Chiavenna)
The small park has a number of nice walks in it that take you between the rocks. As you go look out for the famous Bronze-age carvings there, as well as more from a succession of visitors in the 10th, 14th and 19th centuries! The tourist office has a good guide that explains more
Come and see the ‘Pots of the giant’. The rocks in this national park on the edge of Chiavenna look like a giant has carved deep potholes in the side of them. In fact they were carved out by the glacier that scoured out the valley. As it passed over the rocks, water and rocks on the glacier surface would pour down vertical cracks and shafts in the ice. As the rocks hit the bedrock underneath they would swirl around (like water going down a plughole) and made an effective scouring pad to carve potholes.
There is no set route through the park and you can wander as little or as much as you like. Once you are finished jump in the car for some of the fantastic food at Rifugio Uscione and super views across the valley +39 349 362 1056
The AcquaFraggia Waterfalls and the climb to Savogno (Easy to reach the waterfall. To reach Savogno = strenuous, 90mins, 600m ascent).
These famous waterfalls are just up the valley from Chiavenna at Piuro (drive up the valley for 10mins heading towards St Moritz until you see them on the left). At the bottom of the waterfalls there is a small meadow and some trees which is a nice place for a picnic and to play games. You can also follow steps up to the right of the rocks to the top and look out at the waterfall crashing down beneath you.
Alternatively you can follow this path (or a wider path just to the right which avoids the waterfalls) and after about 90mins of climbing arrive at the lovely mountain village of Savogno 932m). There is a rifugio in the village (tel: +39 366 710 1665) which is a good place for lunch and a glass of wine. You can also stay there and they have smart clean rooms for groups or families. Each room has a balcony, most with a good view. They have a great game outside the door where you have to swing a ring on a string over a hook on the wall. Harder than it looks!
Val Bodengo (Easy, 100m, 30mins or more)
Val Bodengo is a good day trip from Chiavenna with a picnic. It’s a peaceful high alpine valley, with a couple of traditional farms halfway along. There are plenty of spots by the river which are lovely places to lay out your picnic rug and stretch out in the sun. Once you get to the road head at Bodengo, just follow the track along the valley bottom for as long as you want, the nicest spots are after the hamlet of Corte terza, a few km from Bodengo.
The road that reaches the valley is one of the most spectacular in the area. It starts about 5Km south of Chiavenna at Gordona (best is to take a map to find it). After winding up a very steep hill and some vertiginous drops you pass a small café at Donadivo. This is a great place for a beer and to take in the views, its run by a couple of canyoning fanatics. You will soon see why they have chosen to live here because just around the corner you cross the most spectacular canyon before reaching the safety of the valley on the other side. The roads really are quite something. you may want to save the beer for the way down!
3. Val Codera
Two unforgettable walks around a dramatic gorge – a wide path clings improbably to the sides of this valley, with stupendous views. If you are feeling adventurous please don’t leave without trying them. There is a good Rifugio (see link below) in Codera which allows you to explore the valley above, or to link both walks. Val Codera is 20mins south of Chiavenna on the main road, above the village of Novate Mezzola.
A hundred years ago, the pretty village of Codera was a mining settlement producing very fine quality granite. However the workers and inhabitants were faced with a tricky problem because the village is at the top of one of the most steep-sided valleys in the Alps. To overcome this a broad path was hewn literally into the hillside to reach the valley, and a tiny railway “Tracciolino” was built on the other side of the valley to take away the rock.
Val Codera path (Strenuous, 500m, 2 hours)
This dramatic path winds its way up from Novate Mezzola to Codera. You can make it as a day trip, but we like to stay at Rifugio Locanda Codera for some great mountain food and a roaring fire (+39 339 612 2179). Start at start at Novate Mezzola on the main road south of Chiavenna.
The “Tracciolino” (railway track) (Strenuous, 500m, 4 hours round trip)
The other path (or railway tunnel) known as the “Tracciolino” locally is 14Km. To make this walk as a round trip start at Novate Mezzola on the main road south of Chiavenna and follow the track to the mountain village of S Giorgio (748m). From here you follow the old mountain railway track, including a series of tunnels to Frasnedo and then the path down to Verceia. The views are pretty dramatic. Don’t forget your torch!
Sentiero Roma
This famous long distance path continues up the valley from Codera to make a five day trek among some of the highest mountains in the area. Or if you prefer, you can run the route by taking part in the Trofeo Kima, which takes place in August. Described by Kilian Jornet as the “most spectacular race in the world” it has become an iconic race for mountain runners.
4. Val di Mello
Val di Mello is pretty and peaceful alpine valley with giant waterfalls and huge granite rockwalls full of awe inspiring mountaineering routes. It’s been compared to America’s Yosemite national park and it’s not hard to see why. Despite the dramatic scenery, Val di Mello is still unspoiled, partly because much of the valley bottom is without vehicle access and still farmed in traditional ways.
It’s worth going there just to potter around in the valley and ogle at the tremendous views. It’s about an hour by car from Chiavenna – head south on the main road then turn left towards Sondrio. The nicest valley walks are to park in San Martino and then head East along the valley following the main path (dirt road). There are some very nice rustic restaurants along the way where the locals will serve you barbequed local sausage + polenta and slugs of red wine. A good place to stop and relax in the sun or watch the rock climbers dotted on the enormous cliffs above you. For the latest climbing gossip and a cool beer try the friendly Bar Monica in San Martino.
5. Engadina
Engadina is a lovely Swiss valley, famous for its mountain scenery and 320 days of annual sunshine, for St Moritz and for containing Swizerland’s only National Park. We have only explored its western end but it’s pretty much as quintessentially Swiss as you could hope for – lovely Alpine villages set in meadows of flowers and dreamy looking cows wandering around with large bells on. Although you are a few miles from St Moritz at the border there are some quite ritzy places to eat too.
Up above are some pretty staggering mountains – if you have any interest in alpinism then a closer look at Sciora peaks, Piz Badile and Pizzo Cengalo are a must.
A potter around Soglio
Soglio – the “gateway to heaven” as locals call it. This hamlet, narrow, cobbled alleys lined with close-set stone buildings, offers tremendous panoramic views over the valley: sitting opposite the impressive mountain Piz Badile. The village is the focus of a number of mountain walks, easy ones following a valley-side route down to Stampa (2hr), as well as longer high-level hikes back to Vicosoprano, or up through the treeline behind the village.
But there are lazier reasons to spend a day or three in Soglio: check out Palazzo Salis in the village (tel: +41 81 822 12 08). Soglio was the seat of the Von Salis family before 1630, and the hotel is still owned by the same family today. The hotel is an eye-opening experience, from the echoing vaulted hall, antique furniture, chaise lounges, open fireplaces and suits of armour, to its grand guest rooms complete with four-poster beds and antique stoves.
You will find a couple of lovely places for lunch in Soglio including a garden restaurant where you can sit under apple trees. This place has been the “gateway to heaven” and inspiration for famous artists such as Hermann Hesse and Giacometti. Definitely worth a wander. Soglio is just left off the main road, once you enter Switzerland.
The lift to Albigna (to reach the rifugio: moderate, 200m, 45mins)
One of the easiest ways to get up into the mountains is to take the lift from Pranzaira to the dam at Albigna (2163m) which runs from June 1 to Sept 30. The lift runs from 7.00 to 11.30 and 13.15 to 16.45 every day, call them on +41 81 838 14 14 to check.
From there it’s a short walk to Rifugio Albigna or you can continue up the valley for dramatic views of the glacier and the Sciora peaks. There’s some good rock climbing there at spazzacaldera and the famous “Fiamme” (flame) rock spire seen on the front cover of many rock climbing guides.
Into the big mountains – Val Bondasca (an easy stroll, or strenuous for the full tour)
The walk into Val Bondasca from Bondo takes you into the most dramatic mountain scenery of the area. Val Bondasca is considered “the pearl” of the region for its difficult climbing on the giant granite mountain faces.
To get there, start at Bondo, which like Soglio has a charming historic centre, including many stone houses and what looks like a turn-of-the-century English hotel that could have been transported from the Lake District. The valley walk is lovely, with the mountain views framed by the river and woodland. Its very nice just taking a stroll here without going further.
The Sac Fura hut (1904m) has the nicest setting in the trees, but it can get crowded with climbers waiting to climb the famous north ridge of Piz Badile. The Sciora hut (2118m) has a slightly desolate setting up above the treeline, but excellent mountain views. It is surprisingly cosy inside, and is super-clean as you would expect from the Swiss. You should telephone ahead to reserve a bed, especially in the summer.
Bondo is just off the main road on the right, after you enter Switzerland.
Via Bregaglia
This useful website gives you more of a flavour of the area and describes some of the longer walking routes here. There is also a nice package where you can book a package of hotels and luggage transport to allow you to walk from one end to the other.
They may even serve you some of their grappa with mountain herbs…
