Eating out
Eating well is one of the delights of living in Italy, and Chiavenna is no exception. We’ve given suggestions of where to eat below, and we’ve also mentioned good places to eat in the walks and activities. For ideas on where to eat, pick up the following free guides from the tourist office: “Valchiavenna Enogastronomia” (a list of restaurants in Valchiavenna) and “Trekking e Gastronomia” (a map of where to walk and eat in the mountains). If you have kids, Italians commonly take their children with them to restaurants (even late at night) so eating out with kids is a more relaxed affair than in the UK. It’s not usual for them to have a kids menu, but they will normally cook you whatever you ask for (eg pasta con pommodoro – pasta with cooked tomato sauce)
Crotti
These are the famous ‘cave restaurants’ of Chiavenna and definitely worth a visit. Millions of years ago, an enormous earthquake brought a massive avalanche of rocks and boulders down from the mountainsides. These formed natural caves and underground passageways that allow cool channels of air to circulate down from the mountaintops. These caves were used by locals to store wine cheese and meats as natural larders and houses were literally built onto the mountainside at the front of the holes. Many of these ‘Crotti’ are now restaurants and once a year in September at the “Sagra dei Crotti” there is a street party where all the Crotti are open and serve food and wine late into the night. The Crotti serve typical hearty mountain food like Pizzocheri made with wholewheat pasta and local cheese, or polenta with meat barbequed over an open fire. You may not get a choice of food, or if you do it will be limited. At most of the Crotti you will get your own chair, but at some of them you sit on benches. They all ooze rustic charm and often have big roaring fires.
Crotto Belvedere
A pleasant 30min stroll up the riverside path from Chiavenna
Loc. Prosto – Strada della Chiesa – Piuro
Tel: +39 0343 33589
Crotto Ombra
Set under a gigantic boulder in the centre of Chiavenna
Viale Protagiano 14
Tel: +39 0343 33403
Osteria Micheroli
Enjoy spectacular views from their terrace in Pianazzola, about 150m from Casa dell’Ava. Serves both local ‘Crotto’ dishes, as well as a seasonal menu
Tel: +39 375 692 0868
Restaurants
Chiavenna has a number of really excellent restaurants and we have listed three of our favourite below. Both these restaurants are really first rate, with interesting local menus and great wine lists. Main courses from €10-15
Crotsac
Superb restaurant and local wine producer
Via Don Primo Lucchinetti, 63 – Mese
tel: +39 0343 41003
Ristorante Lanterna Verde
Part of “Jeunes restauranteurs d’Europe” and awarded a Michelin Star.
Via S Barnaba 7, Villa di Chiavenna
+39 0343 38588
Ristorante Al Cenacolo
With a terrace overlooking the river in the centre of town.
Via C Perdetti 16
tel: +39 0343 32123
Rifugi
In Italy, across the mountains there are thousands of ‘rifugi’ – a posh version of what we think of as a mountain hut. Spending time over lunch or dinner is just as important as the walking in Italy and they go to great lengths transporting the right ingredients by helicopter or by aerial tramway (baskets hanging from wires) up into the mountains. Like the crotti, they serve hearty mountain food and local wine at reasonable prices. There are a number of lists of huts on the internet such as CAI or CAS, but you are just as well to ask at the tourist office for info. If you want to stay take a sleeping bag or sheet sleeping bag.
See walking section for more info.
